ICONS - Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon

Written by Ian Robertson on 1st January 2007

Wine Without Wank presents Icons – the wines that represent the best of breed. Wines that are hailed by the wine world for quality, consistency and flavour. Wines that have a proven track record over the years. Wines that are ICONS.

Some of these wines may prove to be expensive…perfect for celebrations and special occasions!!

So, it seems Dr John Gladstones has been proven correct.

The viticulturist wrote a famous report recommending the Margaret River region for grapes and wine production, published in 1965. He believed that the similarity of climate between Margaret River and Bordeaux, as well as the soil in general (clay subsoil covered by gravelly loam) made the area a dead cert for class wines. And it seems that wines like the Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon have proved him to be correct.

Bill and Sandra Pannell, influenced by Gladstone’s report, started work on the site of Moss Wood at Wilyabrup in 1969. Other early locals who were giving this grape thing a try were the Hohnen’s over at Cape Mentelle, Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, and Diana and Kevin Cullen. It seems that Cabernet was Plan A, and in 1970, two hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon were planted. These vines finally made it into the first vintage of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon in 1973.

Even in these early days, those in the know sat up and took notice. The quality of Margaret River Cabernet was something to watch carefully – the region really had an affinity for the grape, just like the area Gladstones had compared it too – Bordeaux. The early Moss Wood Cabs were, and still are, benchmarks for both the region and Australia, with a famed “golden patch” from 1974 to 1977.

Moss Wood was not to be a one trick pony though. Pinot Noir, Semillon and Chardonnay were also planted within the first few years. They all produced fine wines in their own right, but is fair to say that the Cab stole the show.

The biggest change came in 1979 when Roseworthy graduate Keith Mugford was employed to run the winery. Mugford’s drive to achieve something special with Moss Wood certainly made a splash. In 1985, Mugford put his money where his talent was/is – he and wife Clare bought the estate.

Mugford is seen as an important figurehead in the Australian wine industry, an unofficial spokesperson for Margaret River, for Cabernet, and in recent years for the screwcap initiative. He was certainly among the first to move his premium red wine to screwcap after some disastrous experiences with cork taint in certain vintages. In all facets, his drive for quality in a place that has such a short viticultural history means that he is always assessing the best way to increase quality in the vineyard. Price is not an issue – hand picking, cropping levels, trellising systems – all are based upon the premise of producing the best wine humanly possible. It helps, of course, that he is guaranteed to sell every drop he produces each year!

In an effort to produce a more elegant, lifted and rounded wine, Mugford has included Cabernet Franc and Merlot in small amounts to the blend, and more recently Petit Verdot. The use of these great Bordeaux blending agents does not alter the overall character of the wine – it is still Cabernet Sauvignon, simply with a little more refinement, mouthfeel and a slight “lift.”

That great balancing act is the key to a Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon – power with elegance. One of the hallmarks of this wine icon is exactly that – it is one of those rare wines where you can honestly use those words in the same sentence to describe the wine. It sounds like a cliché, it sounds like you are full of it. But with Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a the perfect summation of a classic wine.

Wine Without Wank reviews Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon.

Moss Wood web site.