Campbell Mattinson's Wine Hunter

Written by Ian Robertson on 7th January 2007

When it comes to the written word, there are some classics in the wine world, and some absolute stinkers. So, forgive my tardiness everyone, since I did not quite get through this book in time to write about it for a Christmas recommendation, but think of this as a New Year’s resolution present…or something like that.

Campbell Mattinson is a wine writer, both for publications such as Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine, newspapers, and his own web site, Winefront.com.au. Campbell is what I would term a ‘modern’ wine writer – his writing, especially the web site, targets real enthusiasts. The sort of guys that really know what they like, and are happy to argue all day long about it! That Campbell is so respected by said enthusiasts speaks volumes for his understanding of wine. For me though it is his writing style that has always been the most admirable part of his work. No mere “Nice wine, 90 points” comments here – somehow, Mattinson finds ways of writing about his subject matter that makes you think, keeps your interest high, and more importantly – keeps it fun.

So now, Campbell Mattinson is a published author. Wine Hunter is a work that traces the life of one of Australia’s great heroes of the wine world, Maurice O’Shea. O’Shea was the winemaker at Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley from 1921 to 1956, both when the winery was owned by his family and afterwards when it was bought by McWilliams. In a time when Australia drank beer and fortified, O’Shea battled against the grain and made table wine. And, so it seems, he made them pretty darn well.

The story of a winemaker who spent most of his life cooped up in the Hunter Valley may seem like something of a yawn – however Mattinson weaves an intricate dialogue, tracing O’Shea’s life from childhood through his education in France during the war and onwards. Basing most of his story on the word of O’Shea’s daughter, he also shows how pivotal his relationship to his separated wife was to his life. In fact, a lot of the book follows this complex relationship, perhaps doomed to failure in a time where Catholic and Protestant marriages were not an easy step to take.

But it is O’Shea’s link to his land at Mount Pleasant, and his incredible palate and ability to ‘see’ the structure of a wine in a way other mere mortals could not that is the centerpiece of the story.

This story is well worth telling, and Mattinson really does tell it well. Choosing to create a ‘dramatization’ of events keeps the book from becoming a dry text of dates, names and wine labels. At times Mattinson is almost overly visual and emotional in his depictions – but it works. You might find yourself chuckling in your head about the over energetic turn of phrase – but you read on, compelled.

I can heartily recommend Wine Hunter. In fact, I would say that anyone with a half interest in wine must read it. It is THAT good.

Wine Hunter is available from most good book stores for a RRP of $35.00.

For Campbell Mattinson’s Winefront Web site, click here.