NSW Southern Highlands Visit

Written by Ian Robertson on 12th February 2007

For decades, Sydney siders looking for their winery stays have looked to the Hunter Valley to the north for their fix.

Well, as the Hunter circus continues to raise big tops, perhaps it is more likely that many will opt for the Southern Highlands to get their weekend wine fix.

Nestled in and around the towns of Mittagong, Bowral and Moss Vale, the Southern Highlands wine region is relatively new – most vineyards have been planted in the late 90’s. The fact that the area is pretty darn stunning – rolling hills covered in rural bushland green, and also allied with the fact that there is quite a bit of money in them there hills (the horsey set seem to like the area!) means that in quite a short space of time there have been over sixty vineyards established, and about twenty odd cellar doors.

Given that it is a newer region, it is safe to say that there are a few differences of opinion about which grape varieties are suited to the region. It is a cool climate place, although many winemakers I spoke too wryly questioned that with global warming they were not sure how long that would last. But certainly as a general rule of thumb whites were more refined and stylish than the reds, which seemed to suffer from being a little too ripe and confectioned. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc seemed to be fairly standard, with a few banking on Pinot Gris. Surprisingly few were toying with Riesling, although when I did find some, there was enough in them to make me question whether or not more shold be experimenting. For the reds, many agreed that Merlot could be king, with a few hanging their hats on Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Shiraz was evident, however many were not really confident in it doing well.

The cellar doors are mainly small affairs, many not permanently manned although advertised as open – to be safe, call ahead for most places. The other benefit – price. 95% of the wines were under $30 a bottle – and probably 70% of them were under $20.

Centennial Vineyards Just outside of Bowral, Centennial is by far the largest and most impressive cellar door. The wine list is pretty impressive too – over 12 wines are available to taste. The Sparkling and Sauvignon Blanc were quite impressive, but the standout by far is the Woodside Chardonnay – a very refined and tasty drop! A very pleasant looking restaurant is also on the site.

Blue Metal From the biggest to one of the smallest and newest – Blue Metal is again in a lovely secluded location surrounded by gums. The Sauvignon Blancs were pretty darn good too, with a lovely limey taste.

Joadja From one of the newest to the oldest – Joadja has been around since the early 80’s, making it the areas pioneer. In a good sign both a cat and a dog greeted us as we awaited our host to unlock the cellar door – we all know that cellar doors are better with pets! The wines were quite neat too, with a nice Malbec rounding out the tasting.

Bou-saada I was beginning to despair that I would not find any Riesling – and then I found Bou-saada. The Rieslings were not world beaters – but my there is promise here. Also, the Verjuice is tasty – you can drink it straight without any worry!

Howards Lane Lovely location with a view down the hillside, and some decent wine as well. The Merlot shows promise, again the Sauvignon Blanc was pretty good.

McVitty Grove What a view! I could take this in all day, a sweeping view from a hilltop down the valley floor, more lovely hills and the Blue Mountains in the distance. The Pinot Gris is not for me, the Sparkling shows promise, and the Pinot Noir shows that the area might be able to do something with this variety yet. The café is beautifully situated, even if it looks a tad pricey.

Mundrakoona Estate / Artemis Currently battling with NSW legislators about their ability to sell from the cellar door, as they have also started a brewery. The Artemis Tempranillo was an interesting drop, but the Leatherjacket Lager, a Pilsener style, is to die for.

I came back with some bottles that will start hitting the reviews section shortly. Stay tuned!