Cool Climate?

Written by Ian Robertson on 28th January 2008

I saw a bottle the other day that had a big sticker on it. No, not one of those annoying Gold Medal stickers. No, not one of the ones proclaiming Bio-Dynamic all over it. This one just had one phrase - "Cool Climate."

I looked at the region where this wine came from. The region was Eden Valley. "Hey now" I thought to myself - "Eden Valley is cool climate?" Is it?

There are many things in the world of marketing that bug me. (Ok, everything in the world of marketing bugs me, but I digress.) Here is the latest one. Cool climate wines are a buzz word at the moment. Cool climate is the latest craze to confuse the consumer into thinking it is better.

Cool climate - what the hell does it really mean in Australia? Sure, Tasmania has some definite cool climate regions. But apart from that, all others that are "cool" are because they have height on their side - think Orange or Macedon for example. But given the ability of all regions in Australia to get pretty damn hot in the daytime, do we really have any cool climate regions?

Back to our Eden Valley example. I have been in Eden Valley during some pretty bloody cold days. And I have also been there when is has been steaming at almost 40 degrees. I certainly in my head cannot think it cool climate when compared to some places in Alsace or Germany.

Cool climate wines are normally higher in acids and lighter, more elegant. Spices and herby influences will tend to come through in the wine flavour more than out-and-out fruit - depending on the grape of course. That can quite often be a good thing. But bad wine is just bad wine - and I can tell you I have tasted some very ordinary "cool climate" wine.

So, am I quite finished on my rant here? At the end of the day, what advice am I giving you? I guess same as always.

Never believe what is written on the bottle - apart from maybe the alcohol statement or the grape variety. (and there is some leeway there too...nevermind!)

Trust your instincts, and trust what is in the glass.

Because cool, warm or stinkin' hot - it's whats in the glass that matters.