The Hunter Valley - A Personal Reflection

Written by Ian Robertson on 6th April 2008

When it comes to my wine ‘heritage’ the Hunter Valley looms large. My love of the fermented grape really had its roots in visits to the Valley in the early to mid-Nineties when I really should have been at Uni or studying in Newcastle. But, I was doing an Arts degree with a Major in Classical Civilisation and English Literature, so…you know…free time and all that…

Sorry, back to the point.

In those days, the Hunter Valley was just starting into its current boom. There was certainly a number of producers in those days – but the Cellar Doors were usually not big – McGuigan’s the exception – and most producers were of the ‘winemaker on the desk’ type of setup.

How different to now.

The modern looking, steel and glass all over the place and big big big cellar door has now well and truly invaded. I try to like them – I really do. But I would so much rather show up to a small producer with a casual setting and settle in for a chat and a drink with someone emotionally invested in the product than stand at a bar 50 metres long and wait for the local casual bar worker in the nice black apron to pour me the next thing on the list with a one line descriptor that they trot out to everyone they pour it for. It is a strange thing too – production volume does not seem to correspond to the audacity of the building – Tyrrell’s has a lovely sized Cellar Door of the older style, yet places like Hungerford Hill and Tempus Two have monstrous, cavernous buildings.

And then there is Bill Roche.

Fair to say that in the last ten years since Roche developed the Hunter Valley Gardens complex, together with Harrigans Irish pub, Villas, a cellar door, picnic and BBQ area as well as the Village shops, the locals have had a bit of a love/hate relationship going. Many can see the development as a major tourist drawcard that benefits the entire Valley. Others bemoan the commercialisation of it all. More than one smaller, older generation Hunter resident has spoken to me using the term ‘circus’ to describe what the Valley is becoming – and the Roche developments are a major part of that feel. It has to be said that Hunter Valley Gardens itself is an incredible achievement nonetheless – 60 acres of breathtaking flora immaculately maintained. But other parts of his development seem a little cheap in comparison.

I guess I have to offer an opinion on whether the changes of the last ten years are for the better or not – and I think it fairly obvious which way I am leaning. Wine tourism is a difficult balancing act – so easy to get wrong. And for the most part, I do think the Hunter Valley is getting it wrong. The sheer volume of tourists flowing through the region means there is money to be made in big resorts and flashy cellar doors. Lets not forget to add in a number of small boutique producers with nice little rustic cellar doors, but phenomenally bad wine to the wrongdoings!

It is a strange conundrum – a tourist mecca thriving on the tourist dollar – yet the Hunter wine style finding it increasingly hard to get a hold in the marketplace. If I have any advice for those seeking the true Hunter – stay away from the metal and glass. Go for the wood finishes in the cellar door!

Seriously, though – here is a list of Cellar Doors worth visiting both for ambience and quality of wine – in no particular order

• Boutique Wine Centre – home of Meerea Park, and thus home to leading edge Semillon and often Outstanding Shiraz

• Brokenwood – debatable whether the entire list is worthwhile, however if you manage to get them to pop open a Graveyard Shiraz it is worth it

• Tyrrells – The occasional gem Chardonnay or Shiraz – the always excellent Semillons

• McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant – Solid quality from a larger producer without looking like a space station – and not too expensive either

• Marsh Estate – quality focussed smaller producer

• Tower Estate – Sometimes outstanding, sometimes not – but always worth keeping tabs on. A chance for cross regional comparisons on the list

• Capercaillie – Quality of the Semillons and earthy Shiraz has been great in the last few years – I for one certainly hope it continues after recently losing owner/winemaker Alisdair Sutherland

• Margan – Semillon turf here – and very good at it too!

• Honeytree – Decent Shiraz and Cabernet at the fuller riper end of the scale – but it is the Clairault that is worth checking out if only for uniqueness.

• Scarborough – For many years a dedicated Chardonnay producer of great value as something much more than a quaffer but not quite ever touching greatness – starting to explore Shiraz and Pinot Noir with some success as well.

…and for good measure, in the rarely open category but worth it if you are in the Valley around Easter and they have the “Open” sign out front…

• Lake’s Folly

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