Howard Park / MadFish

Written by Ian Robertson on 31st January 2009

There are a few things that are quite remarkable about Howard Park. Firstly, that a family owned producer could be such a force at all price points. Second, that it could not only survive a founder of vision and drive who thrust the business into the limelight leaving, but actually further its reputation. And thirdly – that the wines taste so darn good.

So the story goes – John Wade, the aforementioned founder, establishes a major enterprise based in Denmark with its first vintage in 1986. At that stage no producers of note were in the Great Southern region. However Wade had a purpose behind his placement – he suspected that the region would be one of those rare beasts able to produce quality Cabernet as well as quality Riesling. And when one is passionate about these varieties, usually one has to select a region suitable to one or the other. Wade thought otherwise – why not have your cake and eat it too?

And so, Howard Park not only commenced production, it began as a thriving business enterprise making not only its own wines but becoming the major contract producer for the region and for quite a few other makers outside of the region as well. It was not long before Wade’s vision was proven correct as well – the Cabernet blend from Great Southern started making serious waves on the auction circuit and in critical circles, and the Riesling arguably made even more impact.

The continuation of the story starts not long after that first vintage, when Jeff and Amy Burch join the Howard Park enterprise in 1993. The business builds a winery at Denmark, and becomes the epicentre for the Great Southern region in 1997. One year later, John Wade leaves and Michael Kerrigan takes over as head winemaker. By this stage, plans to expand into Margaret River were well underway with the planting of the Leston vineyard, and in 2000 a cellar door opens at the site. The Burch’s guidance oversaw a burgeoning expansion in a time when most wine businesses of this size were under serious threat.

There are too few wineries that manage the juggling act of catering well to the price conscious as well as the devotee, and even fewer family owned. With their entry label Madfish, Howard Park shrewdly began making quality wine at a price point under a distinctive brand that was different to their more premium wines. Madfish was produced in enough quantity that it could be found in most major retailers at between $12 and $18. The important thing to note about the Madfish range though is the quality and style. Unlike most other entry level brands, this is not just a case of making wine from the fruit that does not make the grade for the more premium wines. In fact, much of the Margaret River fruit is used in the range – a bit thought provoking to say that Margaret River fruit is used primarily for a budget wine label! However, the style of the label is deliberately easy drinking in weight and in fruit flavours, without sacrificing some of the more complex notes that make it of interest to the more than casual drinker. In the better years, the Madfish Riesling actually gives the Howard Park label a serious run for its money!

At the premium end of the market, the Great Southern Cabernet blend (The Abercrombie) and Riesling have long been standard bearers for the varieties in Australia. The Cabernet: lean and tight through the mouth, whilst retaining a plump rounded character with good power and grainy tannins. The Riesling: racy and minerally with good ripe citrus flavours and long lingering length. These have been joined by some of the Margaret River based cousins who are starting to challenge their position at the head of the Howard Park tree, and more often in the last few vintages, its Margaret River Shiraz is leading a new fight for the variety in the region. In fact, one the attributes that is becoming more and more apparent with the operation is its refusal to play the regional classification game – as Jeff Burch stated to me, “We know that great fruit is produced in Margaret River, Pemberton, Frankland, Mt Barker, Denmark and the Porongerups. I refuse to be pigeon holed into a GI region. I accept our model is different, but just because we choose to paint on a bigger canvas I don’t think that is a bad thing. Different regions add something to some blends or are particularly good at a single variety.” He is not wrong - I felt guilty entering wines for review into our database and labelling them Great Southern after his comments!!

Many producers have struggled to cover a full range of focus like this, especially in the last few years where times have been tight in the wine industry. Howard Park have not only continued to achieve excellence on all fronts – they look likely to continue to adapt, change and grow. under the reins of the Burch family and new Chief Winemaker, Tony Davis. Davis has already made an impact with his Riesling from the last few vintages; a trend that is likely to continue across the range in years to come.

Wine Without Wank reviews Madfish wines.

Wine Without Wank reviews Howard Park wines.