ICONS – Jasper Hill Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz

Written by Ian Robertson on 2nd May 2009

Wine Without Wank presents Icons – the wines that represent the best of breed. Wines that are hailed by the wine world for quality, consistency and flavour. Wines that have a proven track record over the years. Wines that are ICONS.

Some of these wines may prove to be expensive…perfect for celebrations and special occasions!!

Ask those in the know in the wine world about their impressions of the Jasper Hill red wines, and you are sure to hear a description that more or less designates them as big wines. Huge. Massive. Brute. Maybe even just big. But there is no doubt that these wines have a reputation for being on the larger side of the spectrum.

While there is no doubt that some massive bodied wines have come out of Jasper Hill over the years, I have to say that the reputation is not totally justified. In the last dozen years or so, some extremely refined wines weighing in with much lower alcohols than expected have appeared. Of course, so have some absolute brutes!

Wonder why this might be the case, and you can find the main reason fairly easily in Jasper Hill’s opening paragraph on their web site. ‘Minimal intervention.’

Vintage plays a big role in shaping these wines, primarily because that’s the way Ron Laughton has always wanted it to be. Ever since the first vines were planted on the Heathcote property in 1975, the prime objective has been to let nature take its course through the climate and the deep red Cambrian soils. No chemicals, no irrigation, not even American rootstocks. Long before mot winemakers knew what the words organic or biodynamic meant, Ron was using his intuition to produce deeply flavoured wines that spoke of a sense of place.

Of course, even when you are attempting to leave nature to do the work for you, a winemaker still needs to make some decisions. Not least of which, is when to pick the grapes. Despite the difference in weight between varying years of these wines, this is one area where it seems to be that the winemaking team at Jasper Hill – Ron now joined by daughter Emily – get it right so often. Even their biggest wines have balance, freshness and acidity – no dead fruit / prune / raison tones in these wines.

The eagle eyed among you will have noticed that I have awarded two wines Icon status rather than one. Whilst Emily’s Paddock is more often the more expensive wine, probably due to its smaller production, Georgia’s Paddock has produced as many brilliant wines down through the years – perhaps actually more. I cannot separate them – the choice is about mood perhaps rather than quality. I honestly cannot think of two wines from a producer that I bracket so solidly in my head.

In terms of place, Emily's Paddock is three hectares of Shiraz including around five percent Cabernet Franc, yielding about two tonnes per hectare Georgia's Paddock is twelve hectares of Shiraz yielding about three tonnes per hectare. They are separated by no more then 1Km, yet each vintage produce vastly different flavour profiles. Jasper Hill was by far the first quality producer in the Heathcote region, opening the doors to plenty of players to follow. But whilst many of these newcomers produce commendable wines, the original is still the best.

Even when they make a wine a little lighter than normal.

Wine Without Wank reviews Jasper Hill.